The Best Newest Reviews of Heng Long 3908 R/C Tank "1/16 Scale Challenger II Main Battle Tank
The Best Newest Reviews of Heng Long 3908 R/C Tank "1/16 Scale Challenger II Main Battle Tank"
Copy the Christmas coupon code "5usdechobby" And Click the link below to buy the Challenger II RC Tank.
1/16 Scale HENG-LONG 3908 British Challenger 2 RC Tank Series
Introduction:
Challenger II is the British Army's modern main battle tank. Challenger II was unique in the Gulf War and was still the peak of British tank technology. Challenger II is reliable, powerful and well-equipped and is known as "a tank built not to win but to win.".
My Hang Lung 1 / 16 ratio "Challenger II" British main battle tank personal average total score: 90 (out of 100)
Henglong's Challenger II is full of the brilliance of gun barrel, which truly represents Britain's most terrible modern tank! Please read below to find out how I reached this level when evaluating the "upgraded" version of this tank. "Upgrade" means that the outside is plastic and its internal gear is steel. Please note that at the locations shown, the metal routing represents the "professional" version, which contains more external metal parts and is more expensive.
Function:
The tank is equipped with the latest tk6.0 mfcb (multifunction control board), which has the following features:
1) Proportional acceleration, steering, turret rotation and lance up / down
2) Programmable radio settings, adjustable recoil, sensitivity in turn, overall sensitivity in acceleration, etc
3) Smoke (on / off)
4) Volume (5 settings, including off)
5) Four different sound settings. Each sound set contains a unique engine start sound, idle sound, acceleration sound, lateral sound, lift sound, machine gun, cannon and stop sound.
6) Track recoil force (low, medium and high settings) - the most realistic is low or medium
7) Launch 6mm plastic BB
8) Transmit an invisible IR signal as part of the Hang Lung IR combat system to disable other tanks with up to 20 tanks simultaneously in simulated combat.
Scale fidelity:
The Challenger II is one of the latest production tanks, shown by Hang Lung in 1 / 16 scale RC. The overall lines of the tank are accurate, and there is no obvious problem with the proportion. As a large chariot in real life, the 1 / 16 Challenger II of Heng Long is the longest chariot provided by Heng Long. Includes two sets of decals to depict on
Accurate marking of the real unit of service.
What's in the box:
As an RTR or "ready to run" RC model, the box includes everything except the six AA batteries for the radio transmitter. In areas where the transportation of liquids is restricted, there is no glycerin used for the "smoke effect", but it can be found in hardware stores or convenience stores that sell glycerin oil.
Radios, water tanks, cosmetic accessories, water tank batteries, water tank battery chargers and plastic BB do not require any "assembly", except for the installation of the aforementioned "cosmetic accessories".
The first two-minute functional test:
Because the water tank itself is fully functional and does not need to run cosmetic accessories, I recommend testing the basic functions of the water tank immediately before installing the cosmetic accessories after unpacking. If you happen to have any problems, it is best to report it to Motion RC for warranty support before connecting any decorative parts on the water tank to the water tank.
For the first two-minute test, insert six AA batteries into the radio and turn it on. Insert the 2s battery that comes with the tank, and then slide the switch of the tank to "ON". The radio and the tank have been "bound" through the 2.4Ghz signal, so just press the "key" button on the radio and the tank will start. Move the controls of all fuel tanks in all directions to evaluate their functions. For all controls, please refer to the manual. Please note that when the turret and cannon shells reach their maximum travel point, they will make a "husky" sound. This sound is normal and warns you to stop moving in that direction. It is important not to let the tank run for more than two minutes during this initial test, because the tank only needs to be paid once.
After confirming the normal operation of the water tank, insert the battery into the wall charger provided. When charging, please pay attention to the installation of "cosmetic accessories" described in the "details" section below. Installing cosmetic parts to the outside of the water tank will produce the final result:
Appearance Quality:
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The storage tank is mainly made of ABS plastic and molded by compression. There are a few small depressions, but they are almost invisible. Taking into account its price, the tank assembly and finishing are first-class, I think this is a very good price. This version of Challenger II has been completely painted with the background color and factory applied shading. The weight of the shadow varies in different areas of the water tank, resulting in a good and inconsistent appearance of the shadow. Some people might prefer the no-shadow version, but in my case, I plan to eventually use the factory shadow as a pre-shadow base for a custom airbrush painting job
detail:
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Several plastic parts are provided for modelers to install on the water tank. These are inserted into pre-drilled holes and are almost "snap-fit". Some parts are loose, so I glued them with ABS glue. But otherwise, I would rather keep the parts degummed so that they can be easily removed or replaced if needed in the future. It took me about 45 minutes to install the plastic "accessories" from smoke grenade launchers, 7.62mm MG, oil drums, streamers, shackles and various other surface parts. I hope there are more, but the appearance of the real Challenger II is quite simple, so there is not much work to be done. The engine deck of the tank is very detailed and pre-painted as shown below. Some touch-up paint can be used for the smoke grenade launcher, and the bottom of the fire extinguisher can also be used.
The storage tank arrives at RTR, with radio, storage tank, accessories, storage tank battery, storage tank battery charger and plastic BB. The glycerin needed by smokers may not be included, depending on local transportation restrictions in your area, but its price is sufficient to purchase locally. When working out of the box, the main thing you need to do is to power it with 6 AA batteries.
The assembly of the water tank itself has been completed. The water tank can operate normally within a few minutes after opening the box and inserting the battery.
After verifying all functions, insert the battery of the water tank into the charger, as it only carries a stored charge.
When charging the water tank battery, please attach plastic cosmetic parts or the "accessories" mentioned on the website. As mentioned earlier, it took me about 45 minutes to complete.
Use the clear diagrams in the instruction manual, and stick the decals on a clean and dry surface as needed. These are simple vinyl decals. They are not water ski stickers. After application, you may need to seal them with a transparent cover. I did not. The decals continue to stick well on the surface. For tips on how to install the decal on a fire extinguisher installed on the front ice cover, see "Building a video." I chose to paint the bottom of the fire extinguisher red instead of using the attached red circle decal.
When you have completed the detailed design of the water tank with parts gates and decals, the battery of the water tank should be fully charged and you are ready for the first full-load operation.
Checklist before driving
After completing the detailed description of the filling and decals of the fuel tank, the battery of the fuel tank should be fully charged and the first full test can now be performed!
Reinsert the battery into the battery slot under the water tank. I like the screw designed by Hang Lung to keep it connected to the battery bay door at all times, so that small screw will not be lost. The 2s battery uses a Tamiya connector as the main power source, and also has a traditional three-wire balanced plug. I found that using a battery voltage checker can easily check the battery voltage, just like using a large aircraft battery. When the battery is exhausted, Hang Lung’s system will automatically shut down.
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If you plan to use the included IR (infrared) system to fight your friends, plug in the IR Apple and find its magnetic anchor point in front of the hatch. Hang Lung's magnets are hidden inside the turret, so no unsightly mounts can be seen from the outside of the turret. Infrared apples are short and very sensitive in dark conditions of about 10-15 meters. However, because the upper surface of the "Challenger II" turret is generally flat and tidy, its IR Mac is more eye-catching than Heng Long's other tanks.
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Please note that both the metal suspension arm and the metal idler frame are equipped with adjustable idlers. This allows for very easy adjustments to relax or tighten the track to best suit your driving style and terrain conditions. Challenger II and T-72 are tanks with this mechanism recently launched by Hang Lung. Although it is not an element for daily use, it is still very good if/needed, and is simpler than adding or removing track links to adjust the overall track tension, as required by models such as M1A2 Abrams, Panther G T-90 and Tiger King
Run the tank:
Driving a horizontal dragon tank is easy to learn. The right joystick controls the forward and backward of the accelerator pedal and left and right driving. The left joystick controls the rotation (left and right movement) of the turret and the raising/lowering (up/down) of the main gun. The trick is to synchronize your movements to make the tank move realistically and aim the gun when the tank moves in different directions. All Henglong tank turrets can traverse 320 degrees, and the barrel can be raised and lowered by about 20 degrees. When you hear the "hoarse" sound, the movement has reached its maximum limit and you must stop pushing the joystick in that direction. Perhaps in the future, Hang Lung will be able to implement limit switches.
For information on how to shoot a machine gun, main gun sequence, load 6mm BB and conduct IR combat, please refer to the manual. TK6 also allows users to program a series of functions by pressing a combination button and moving one or two joysticks. The amount of recoil can be adjusted up or down, the maximum speed can be set to two limits, and the sensitivity of forward and reverse rotation and other actions can be programmed in a few seconds. Turning forward is too fast, not to my liking, similar to an RC truck, so I reduced the turning speed to make it turn slower and react to input more like a real tank. Pilots of RC aircraft will recognize this feature as adding "Expo" or "Exponential". Hang Lung has included it in the latest generation of TK6 MFCB.
The upgraded version provided by Motion RC does not use zinc alloy gears like previous upgraded versions. On the contrary, starting from 11/2019, all upgraded fuel tanks of Motion RC include steel gears, which are superior to the old zinc alloy gears in all aspects. Although the rest of the running mechanism of the fuel tank is made of ABS plastic, I prefer this upgraded version because the steel gears in the gearbox are very durable, while the plastic tracks make the fuel tank light and easy to maneuver. The Challenger II is already such a big tank. It is very light and has no extended metal parts. The professional version replaces metal tracks with plastic tracks, active sprockets and idlers. This almost doubles the weight of the fuel tank and also increases the cost, so I suggest that the professional version of the tanker does not have to worry about short driving time or having to buy a few spare batteries. The durability and weight of the Pro version will appeal to those who want weight to exceed all other considerations.
The upgraded configuration of the Challenger II can climb comfortably at 35 degrees, but starts to slide to around 45 degrees. Like other tanks on the "upgrade" level, the plastic track can grip most surfaces well, although sometimes it spins on the tiled floor.
Indoors, the sound is very loud, the LED headlights are bright, and the smoke is easy to see. Outdoors, the sound is still easy to hear, and the LED can be seen in sunlight, but the smoke is hard to see. This is the same, because the real tank does not continuously exhaust smoke as it does when it is set on fire, so I don't mind the reduction in the visible volume in daylight. Challenger II has two exhaust ports, just like a real fuel tank, these exhaust ports are easily accessible under the plastic grille. This makes it easy to add smoke oil to them.
"Send!" Launch the cannon
Pressing the marked button to shoot the machine gun will trigger the machine gun sound and emit a bright LED indicator light at the bottom of the coaxial mount located next to the main gun. Press and hold the cannon button and the machine gun button to shoot the main gun, which produces cannon shooting sound, track recoil and 6mm BB rounds, which can fly 30 feet from the tank. Everything is well synchronized, so the overall effect is convincing. I tend to use the lowest or middle setting for rebound, because I think the highest setting is too exaggerated and impractical. I appreciate the need to hold down two buttons to fire the main gun, because this prevents accidental firing of the 6mm BB. BB will not be injured, but they are still projectiles, so all precautions should be taken to ensure safety. I usually don’t load any BB, and after printing about 100 photos on the attached target paper, I taped it to the BB loading hole in the hatch so that no other BBs would fire from the main gun. risk. Another method is to disconnect the plug from the MFCB.
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Of all the Henglong tanks I have used recently, the most interesting is IR combat with other tanks equipped with the same TK6 MFCB. Regardless of whether the BB is loaded, the firing of the main gun will always trigger the gun sound and orbital recoil, and will also always trigger the IR (infrared) transmitter hidden in the shell, facing forward. The invisible light beam emitted by the infrared transmitter is detected by the infrared mast of any other tank equipped with TK6 or tank equipped with Tamiya infrared combat system. The mast is magnetically connected to the turret and receives "impacts" from other tanks. The recorded hit will cause the tank to tremble for one second. After five hits, the tank will play the "explosion and burning sound" and then turn off for five seconds. You can continue fighting with your friends before it automatically turns on. Arguing in the backyard with four or five tanks is very interesting! Avoid shooting while maneuvering and fishing, while shouting and taunting your friends, become very competitive. Compared with the lower profile of the T-90, the higher profile of Challenger II does expose it to the incoming fire, as shown in the figure below. Please note the relative height of its IR apples.
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Like all other Henglong TK6 series tanks, I found that the sensitivity of Challenger II's infrared transmitter is acceptable in dark conditions (about 10-15 meters). Under the best conditions, the hit rate can be recorded to 25 meters or more, but in my experience, this is rare. In the local RC tank battle, the target range is often shorter. It should also be noted that infrared technology is susceptible to performance degradation under direct sunlight, which is why infrared chariots often use sunshades on infrared receivers ("Apples"). The infrared receiver may also be covered by obstacles, even obstacles on the turret. In addition, it seems that turning the turret while recording a hit may produce inconsistent results, so this is not a perfect science. Simulate a fire in real life?
Strength and handling
In the "High" setting, the "Challenger II" moves at full throttle walking speed, and in the "Low" setting, it is about 25% slower. Press and hold G and move the left stick up or down to select high or low settings respectively. Using proportional steering control can really slow down seemingly very large-scale "crawling" operations. This is the highlight of the TK6 MFCB, which can provide excellent proportional control of all objects moving on the tank. The older version only cycled its cannon barrel up/down, but now with the TK6 version, I can raise or lower the spray gun at any time along its path, and can do it quickly or slowly according to my stick input operating. For this and other reasons, I think Hang Lung’s MFCB has been completely obsolete in the past ten years, and this new MFCB is their way of the future. I do not know
Upgrade path and "removability"-how easy is it to repair, maintain and upgrade this tank? :
Speaking of TK6 MFCB, I am glad to see that it has several unused ports. There is a brake light port and a turn signal port. There is even a "main barrel LED" port that flashes in sync with the sound of the gun. If you can insert an LED in the barrel and cancel the firing function of the air gun BB, then every time you fire the main gun, you can perform a neat simulation "flash" at the tip of the barrel within a few minutes.
As far as the overall ease of operation of the "Challenger II" is concerned, my rating is 10 out of 10 because of its large hull and turret. This makes access to the inside of the tank very easy, and there is a lot of room to add larger speakers, for example, to implement rebound barrels or other DIY upgrades.
As mentioned earlier, my Challenger II is an "upgraded" version, which means that its external parts are all plastic, while the gears in the gearbox are steel. I found this to be the best balance between cost, driveability and weight. The more expensive "pro" version has metal tracks, idlers and drive sprockets. The increased weight provides better durability under certain conditions, of course it feels more like a fuel tank (ie brick), but the price for this increase in weight is shortened driving time. For users who use the heavier professional version, it is recommended to purchase spare batteries. I like that the Pro version of Challenger II does not use metal wheels because those wheels seem to have wasted weight on the bulky fuel tank.
Precautions:
1) The plastic BB in all Henglong tanks is not the best. Their instruction manual recommends visually classifying BBs and removing any BBs that are deformed, flat, cracked or oblong. In my Challenger II BB bag, almost 8% of the BB was discarded. Nevertheless, at least 70 or so BBs are sufficiently smooth and spherical.
2) Do not irrigate smokers. There is a smoker in the water tank and there are two exhaust pipes. In fact, these pipes can be used as both the exhaust of smoke and the inlet of smoke oil. Therefore, you must put a drop in each pipe for every hour of smoking. less is more! If you overflow the tube, the smoke will not be emitted, causing the smoker's machine to block and die.
3) Please read our "Do and Don't Do RC Tanks" article here *and watch its accompanying video *here* to get all the relevant tips, tricks and warnings related to any RC tank. Most importantly, don't try to push the tank to an obstacle larger than the obstacle that the actual tank can withstand at a ratio of 1/16. These tanks are not large-scale crawler trucks, so do not expect them to climb over rocks and boulders higher than the tank's ground clearance, which is usually about 1 inch below the hull. Also, do not try to drive in water or mud. RC storage tanks are not suitable for use in wet or muddy environments in their original state. Extensive waterproofing and cleaning are just the beginning of the upgrade work so that this operation can be repeated without causing irreparable damage.
in conclusion
Like all Hang Lung 1/16 tanks, I will evaluate the level of each of the seven key areas. To be fair, my rating is based on Challenger II's own price point and target audience. They are entry-level and mid-level RC tank enthusiasts who want to get started in the $150-$200 RTR range. From this perspective, this is how I treat
Hang Lung 1/16 scale "Challenger II" British MBT ranking method: initial quality: 94/100
My Challenger II is in ideal condition and is safely packaged. Like all horizontal dragon tanks, Challenger II is mainly made of ABS plastic. The "upgraded" version I have is mostly plastic, with a metal suspension arm and an adjustable idler mechanism on the outside, while the internal metal gearbox of the fuel tank uses steel gears.
The paint work in the factory is evenly carried out, with dense shadows but not overly glaring.
Although it is a large hull with long hulls and high side walls, the lower and upper hulls did not show significant curvature. I think the temporary refueling opportunity agrees that, under reasonable conditions, there is no need to strengthen the Challenger II hull out of the box. Inside, the steel gears are well lubricated. I did notice that some of the grease residue began to pile up in a line, being thrown away by the centrifugal force of the rotating gear.
User-friendliness and portability: 88/100
The convenience of the Hang Lung RTR kit really makes it easy to get started in the world of RC tanks. In this sense, all of Hang Lung’s tanks are excellent in reducing the cost of entering this hobby field, and I think many scale enthusiasts will like to scale tanks, just like airplanes, cars, trucks or ships. The radio attached to Hang Lung can do this without being too flashy. Compared to radios with ultra-low latency, 1 km range and Hall-effect induction bearing gimbals, I prefer to use this basic radio with a cheaper package. This is not a jet plane, 100 miles per hour from me at an altitude of a thousand feet. Although other manufacturers dominate the higher-scale and higher-function market, the prices are often prohibitive.
Like Henglong's other 1/16 scale "Big Five" tanks (Abrams, Leopard 2A6, T99, Tiger King), the large size of the Challenger II can also be said to be an advantage, because it is a Kind of responsibility. Its long barrel can easily hit my car door or something, so be careful when you carry it with you. The machine gun on the top of the turret is best removed during transportation because its position is so exposed.
Despite being a "lightweight" upgraded version, the "Challenger II" weighs more than 6 pounds. The professional version with metal wheels and tracks weighs about 11 pounds! Therefore, people who want a light, easy-to-transport fuel tank may want to find another place.
Perhaps the most user-friendly element of Challenger II is its adjustable idler mechanism. Easy to access and easy to adjust (if needed).
Mobility and driving experience 90/100
Although the Challenger II is larger in size, its crawler tracks have a larger ground contact area, so the ground pressure is lower, so it has outstanding mobility. In fact, plastic crawlers have sufficient bite force on the surface of short grass and accumulated dirt or loose gravel. However, due to speed, I may sometimes force the track of the tank to slide on smooth surfaces such as cement, tiles or wooden floors.
However, if the user tries to perform a fast "super spin" operation, the above-mentioned flexure inherent in the plastic track found in the original version, the upgraded version and the Upgrade-A version is easy to jump teeth due to the outer edge of the track shoe. You can drill into a softer surface and gradually solve it. However, under the large-scale operation speed, the plastic track can play a perfect role. This is a tank, not a drift car.
I prefer the third sound setting of Challenger II. Out of the box, it is programmed as a second sound set. Tap the G and K buttons at the same time to switch between different sound sets.
Durability 87/100
The metal suspension arm and the almost flat bottom hull have high long-term durability. I found that the Challenger II does not get stuck on many obstacles. Although the cantilever is in a vulnerable position when driving in the rubble, there are no deep cuts in the cantilever or raised protection area. Unlike the early staggered wheels of King Tiger, Panther G or Tiger I, the wheel layout can also resist debris.
However, I still recommend using ABS adhesive to stick the towing hooks of the front lower hull, the shackles and towing hooks of the rear lower hull, because they are easy to break if they encounter obstacles higher than 38mm ground clearance. Depending on how you carry the Challenger II, it is also a good idea to stick the rear fuel tank to the hull.
Customers who want to increase the rigidity and durability of metal tracks, metal idlers and metal drive sprockets should consider buying the more expensive "professional" version, as shown in the picture below. Please note that since there is no paint out of the box, it is easy to identify the metal parts.
Scale fidelity 90/100
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Several plastic parts are provided for modelers to install on the water tank to enhance the overall appearance of the scale. These are inserted into pre-drilled holes and are almost "snap-fit". Some parts are loose, so I glued them with ABS glue. However, otherwise, I hope that the parts will not be disconnected so that they can be easily removed or replaced if needed in the future. From beginning to end, it takes about 45-50 minutes to install plastic "accessories" in the front turret area, including fuel tanks, fire extinguishers, grenade launchers, rearview mirrors and many grippers. If you want to spend some time cutting out the parts from the plastic gate, plan for an hour. I recommend a sharp clipper designed for this purpose because it makes cleaning up much easier.
At this price point, some detail areas must be softened and can be used in mass-produced RC tanks, but overall, this 1/16-scale Challenger II looks good from almost any angle. It feels like a powerful machine, which means doing bad things to bad guys.
Easy to maintain and upgrade possibilities 94/100
Not surprisingly, the Challenger II is easy to maintain and provides ample space inside the hull. Drivers who want to upgrade to larger speakers or design on-board charging systems are best to use a spacious tank like Challenger II instead of a smaller shell tank. Challenger II can provide spindle housing upgrades, but unless/until we change the factory assembly process, it is not easy to install at present.
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Another "upgrade" cost worth paying will be Tamiya's 1/16 German tank crew figure, which is the closest I can find to the Challenger II figure. I used the graphics shown below on the Leopard 2A6, but through repainting and some adjustments, I think they can make a suitable replacement on the Challenger II model. Hope that in the future someone can design a 3DP file for graphic printing or resin casting.
Total value (cost, size, performance, quality) 90/100
Overall, Challenger II is good. It is the only British tank in Hang Lung's current portfolio, although I look forward to changes this day. As a modern MBT currently in use, Hang Lung’s 1/16 model provides RC Tankers with a living legendary opportunity. If you don’t mind its large size and bulky proportions, and want to use a modern tank that is rarer than T-90 or Abrams in your next club event, Challenger II is worth considering.
The average individual total score of the Henglong 1/16 scale "Challenger II": 90/100
The Henglong Challenger II uses the convenience of a metal suspension arm and an adjustable roller to support its large size. The roller is wrapped in a tank that represents the pinnacle of British tank design.
Copy the Christmas coupon code "5usdechobby" And Click the link below to buy the Challenger II RC Tank.
1/16 Scale HENG-LONG 3908 British Challenger 2 RC Tank Series
Introduction:
Challenger II is the British Army's modern main battle tank. Challenger II was unique in the Gulf War and was still the peak of British tank technology. Challenger II is reliable, powerful and well-equipped and is known as "a tank built not to win but to win.".
My Hang Lung 1 / 16 ratio "Challenger II" British main battle tank personal average total score: 90 (out of 100)
Henglong's Challenger II is full of the brilliance of gun barrel, which truly represents Britain's most terrible modern tank! Please read below to find out how I reached this level when evaluating the "upgraded" version of this tank. "Upgrade" means that the outside is plastic and its internal gear is steel. Please note that at the locations shown, the metal routing represents the "professional" version, which contains more external metal parts and is more expensive.
Function:
The tank is equipped with the latest tk6.0 mfcb (multifunction control board), which has the following features:
1) Proportional acceleration, steering, turret rotation and lance up / down
2) Programmable radio settings, adjustable recoil, sensitivity in turn, overall sensitivity in acceleration, etc
3) Smoke (on / off)
4) Volume (5 settings, including off)
5) Four different sound settings. Each sound set contains a unique engine start sound, idle sound, acceleration sound, lateral sound, lift sound, machine gun, cannon and stop sound.
6) Track recoil force (low, medium and high settings) - the most realistic is low or medium
7) Launch 6mm plastic BB
8) Transmit an invisible IR signal as part of the Hang Lung IR combat system to disable other tanks with up to 20 tanks simultaneously in simulated combat.
Scale fidelity:
The Challenger II is one of the latest production tanks, shown by Hang Lung in 1 / 16 scale RC. The overall lines of the tank are accurate, and there is no obvious problem with the proportion. As a large chariot in real life, the 1 / 16 Challenger II of Heng Long is the longest chariot provided by Heng Long. Includes two sets of decals to depict on
Accurate marking of the real unit of service.
What's in the box:
As an RTR or "ready to run" RC model, the box includes everything except the six AA batteries for the radio transmitter. In areas where the transportation of liquids is restricted, there is no glycerin used for the "smoke effect", but it can be found in hardware stores or convenience stores that sell glycerin oil.
Radios, water tanks, cosmetic accessories, water tank batteries, water tank battery chargers and plastic BB do not require any "assembly", except for the installation of the aforementioned "cosmetic accessories".
The first two-minute functional test:
Because the water tank itself is fully functional and does not need to run cosmetic accessories, I recommend testing the basic functions of the water tank immediately before installing the cosmetic accessories after unpacking. If you happen to have any problems, it is best to report it to Motion RC for warranty support before connecting any decorative parts on the water tank to the water tank.
For the first two-minute test, insert six AA batteries into the radio and turn it on. Insert the 2s battery that comes with the tank, and then slide the switch of the tank to "ON". The radio and the tank have been "bound" through the 2.4Ghz signal, so just press the "key" button on the radio and the tank will start. Move the controls of all fuel tanks in all directions to evaluate their functions. For all controls, please refer to the manual. Please note that when the turret and cannon shells reach their maximum travel point, they will make a "husky" sound. This sound is normal and warns you to stop moving in that direction. It is important not to let the tank run for more than two minutes during this initial test, because the tank only needs to be paid once.
After confirming the normal operation of the water tank, insert the battery into the wall charger provided. When charging, please pay attention to the installation of "cosmetic accessories" described in the "details" section below. Installing cosmetic parts to the outside of the water tank will produce the final result:
Appearance Quality:
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The storage tank is mainly made of ABS plastic and molded by compression. There are a few small depressions, but they are almost invisible. Taking into account its price, the tank assembly and finishing are first-class, I think this is a very good price. This version of Challenger II has been completely painted with the background color and factory applied shading. The weight of the shadow varies in different areas of the water tank, resulting in a good and inconsistent appearance of the shadow. Some people might prefer the no-shadow version, but in my case, I plan to eventually use the factory shadow as a pre-shadow base for a custom airbrush painting job
detail:
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Several plastic parts are provided for modelers to install on the water tank. These are inserted into pre-drilled holes and are almost "snap-fit". Some parts are loose, so I glued them with ABS glue. But otherwise, I would rather keep the parts degummed so that they can be easily removed or replaced if needed in the future. It took me about 45 minutes to install the plastic "accessories" from smoke grenade launchers, 7.62mm MG, oil drums, streamers, shackles and various other surface parts. I hope there are more, but the appearance of the real Challenger II is quite simple, so there is not much work to be done. The engine deck of the tank is very detailed and pre-painted as shown below. Some touch-up paint can be used for the smoke grenade launcher, and the bottom of the fire extinguisher can also be used.
The storage tank arrives at RTR, with radio, storage tank, accessories, storage tank battery, storage tank battery charger and plastic BB. The glycerin needed by smokers may not be included, depending on local transportation restrictions in your area, but its price is sufficient to purchase locally. When working out of the box, the main thing you need to do is to power it with 6 AA batteries.
The assembly of the water tank itself has been completed. The water tank can operate normally within a few minutes after opening the box and inserting the battery.
After verifying all functions, insert the battery of the water tank into the charger, as it only carries a stored charge.
When charging the water tank battery, please attach plastic cosmetic parts or the "accessories" mentioned on the website. As mentioned earlier, it took me about 45 minutes to complete.
Use the clear diagrams in the instruction manual, and stick the decals on a clean and dry surface as needed. These are simple vinyl decals. They are not water ski stickers. After application, you may need to seal them with a transparent cover. I did not. The decals continue to stick well on the surface. For tips on how to install the decal on a fire extinguisher installed on the front ice cover, see "Building a video." I chose to paint the bottom of the fire extinguisher red instead of using the attached red circle decal.
When you have completed the detailed design of the water tank with parts gates and decals, the battery of the water tank should be fully charged and you are ready for the first full-load operation.
Checklist before driving
After completing the detailed description of the filling and decals of the fuel tank, the battery of the fuel tank should be fully charged and the first full test can now be performed!
Reinsert the battery into the battery slot under the water tank. I like the screw designed by Hang Lung to keep it connected to the battery bay door at all times, so that small screw will not be lost. The 2s battery uses a Tamiya connector as the main power source, and also has a traditional three-wire balanced plug. I found that using a battery voltage checker can easily check the battery voltage, just like using a large aircraft battery. When the battery is exhausted, Hang Lung’s system will automatically shut down.
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If you plan to use the included IR (infrared) system to fight your friends, plug in the IR Apple and find its magnetic anchor point in front of the hatch. Hang Lung's magnets are hidden inside the turret, so no unsightly mounts can be seen from the outside of the turret. Infrared apples are short and very sensitive in dark conditions of about 10-15 meters. However, because the upper surface of the "Challenger II" turret is generally flat and tidy, its IR Mac is more eye-catching than Heng Long's other tanks.
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Please note that both the metal suspension arm and the metal idler frame are equipped with adjustable idlers. This allows for very easy adjustments to relax or tighten the track to best suit your driving style and terrain conditions. Challenger II and T-72 are tanks with this mechanism recently launched by Hang Lung. Although it is not an element for daily use, it is still very good if/needed, and is simpler than adding or removing track links to adjust the overall track tension, as required by models such as M1A2 Abrams, Panther G T-90 and Tiger King
Run the tank:
Driving a horizontal dragon tank is easy to learn. The right joystick controls the forward and backward of the accelerator pedal and left and right driving. The left joystick controls the rotation (left and right movement) of the turret and the raising/lowering (up/down) of the main gun. The trick is to synchronize your movements to make the tank move realistically and aim the gun when the tank moves in different directions. All Henglong tank turrets can traverse 320 degrees, and the barrel can be raised and lowered by about 20 degrees. When you hear the "hoarse" sound, the movement has reached its maximum limit and you must stop pushing the joystick in that direction. Perhaps in the future, Hang Lung will be able to implement limit switches.
For information on how to shoot a machine gun, main gun sequence, load 6mm BB and conduct IR combat, please refer to the manual. TK6 also allows users to program a series of functions by pressing a combination button and moving one or two joysticks. The amount of recoil can be adjusted up or down, the maximum speed can be set to two limits, and the sensitivity of forward and reverse rotation and other actions can be programmed in a few seconds. Turning forward is too fast, not to my liking, similar to an RC truck, so I reduced the turning speed to make it turn slower and react to input more like a real tank. Pilots of RC aircraft will recognize this feature as adding "Expo" or "Exponential". Hang Lung has included it in the latest generation of TK6 MFCB.
The upgraded version provided by Motion RC does not use zinc alloy gears like previous upgraded versions. On the contrary, starting from 11/2019, all upgraded fuel tanks of Motion RC include steel gears, which are superior to the old zinc alloy gears in all aspects. Although the rest of the running mechanism of the fuel tank is made of ABS plastic, I prefer this upgraded version because the steel gears in the gearbox are very durable, while the plastic tracks make the fuel tank light and easy to maneuver. The Challenger II is already such a big tank. It is very light and has no extended metal parts. The professional version replaces metal tracks with plastic tracks, active sprockets and idlers. This almost doubles the weight of the fuel tank and also increases the cost, so I suggest that the professional version of the tanker does not have to worry about short driving time or having to buy a few spare batteries. The durability and weight of the Pro version will appeal to those who want weight to exceed all other considerations.
The upgraded configuration of the Challenger II can climb comfortably at 35 degrees, but starts to slide to around 45 degrees. Like other tanks on the "upgrade" level, the plastic track can grip most surfaces well, although sometimes it spins on the tiled floor.
Indoors, the sound is very loud, the LED headlights are bright, and the smoke is easy to see. Outdoors, the sound is still easy to hear, and the LED can be seen in sunlight, but the smoke is hard to see. This is the same, because the real tank does not continuously exhaust smoke as it does when it is set on fire, so I don't mind the reduction in the visible volume in daylight. Challenger II has two exhaust ports, just like a real fuel tank, these exhaust ports are easily accessible under the plastic grille. This makes it easy to add smoke oil to them.
"Send!" Launch the cannon
Pressing the marked button to shoot the machine gun will trigger the machine gun sound and emit a bright LED indicator light at the bottom of the coaxial mount located next to the main gun. Press and hold the cannon button and the machine gun button to shoot the main gun, which produces cannon shooting sound, track recoil and 6mm BB rounds, which can fly 30 feet from the tank. Everything is well synchronized, so the overall effect is convincing. I tend to use the lowest or middle setting for rebound, because I think the highest setting is too exaggerated and impractical. I appreciate the need to hold down two buttons to fire the main gun, because this prevents accidental firing of the 6mm BB. BB will not be injured, but they are still projectiles, so all precautions should be taken to ensure safety. I usually don’t load any BB, and after printing about 100 photos on the attached target paper, I taped it to the BB loading hole in the hatch so that no other BBs would fire from the main gun. risk. Another method is to disconnect the plug from the MFCB.
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Of all the Henglong tanks I have used recently, the most interesting is IR combat with other tanks equipped with the same TK6 MFCB. Regardless of whether the BB is loaded, the firing of the main gun will always trigger the gun sound and orbital recoil, and will also always trigger the IR (infrared) transmitter hidden in the shell, facing forward. The invisible light beam emitted by the infrared transmitter is detected by the infrared mast of any other tank equipped with TK6 or tank equipped with Tamiya infrared combat system. The mast is magnetically connected to the turret and receives "impacts" from other tanks. The recorded hit will cause the tank to tremble for one second. After five hits, the tank will play the "explosion and burning sound" and then turn off for five seconds. You can continue fighting with your friends before it automatically turns on. Arguing in the backyard with four or five tanks is very interesting! Avoid shooting while maneuvering and fishing, while shouting and taunting your friends, become very competitive. Compared with the lower profile of the T-90, the higher profile of Challenger II does expose it to the incoming fire, as shown in the figure below. Please note the relative height of its IR apples.
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Like all other Henglong TK6 series tanks, I found that the sensitivity of Challenger II's infrared transmitter is acceptable in dark conditions (about 10-15 meters). Under the best conditions, the hit rate can be recorded to 25 meters or more, but in my experience, this is rare. In the local RC tank battle, the target range is often shorter. It should also be noted that infrared technology is susceptible to performance degradation under direct sunlight, which is why infrared chariots often use sunshades on infrared receivers ("Apples"). The infrared receiver may also be covered by obstacles, even obstacles on the turret. In addition, it seems that turning the turret while recording a hit may produce inconsistent results, so this is not a perfect science. Simulate a fire in real life?
Strength and handling
In the "High" setting, the "Challenger II" moves at full throttle walking speed, and in the "Low" setting, it is about 25% slower. Press and hold G and move the left stick up or down to select high or low settings respectively. Using proportional steering control can really slow down seemingly very large-scale "crawling" operations. This is the highlight of the TK6 MFCB, which can provide excellent proportional control of all objects moving on the tank. The older version only cycled its cannon barrel up/down, but now with the TK6 version, I can raise or lower the spray gun at any time along its path, and can do it quickly or slowly according to my stick input operating. For this and other reasons, I think Hang Lung’s MFCB has been completely obsolete in the past ten years, and this new MFCB is their way of the future. I do not know
Upgrade path and "removability"-how easy is it to repair, maintain and upgrade this tank? :
Speaking of TK6 MFCB, I am glad to see that it has several unused ports. There is a brake light port and a turn signal port. There is even a "main barrel LED" port that flashes in sync with the sound of the gun. If you can insert an LED in the barrel and cancel the firing function of the air gun BB, then every time you fire the main gun, you can perform a neat simulation "flash" at the tip of the barrel within a few minutes.
As far as the overall ease of operation of the "Challenger II" is concerned, my rating is 10 out of 10 because of its large hull and turret. This makes access to the inside of the tank very easy, and there is a lot of room to add larger speakers, for example, to implement rebound barrels or other DIY upgrades.
As mentioned earlier, my Challenger II is an "upgraded" version, which means that its external parts are all plastic, while the gears in the gearbox are steel. I found this to be the best balance between cost, driveability and weight. The more expensive "pro" version has metal tracks, idlers and drive sprockets. The increased weight provides better durability under certain conditions, of course it feels more like a fuel tank (ie brick), but the price for this increase in weight is shortened driving time. For users who use the heavier professional version, it is recommended to purchase spare batteries. I like that the Pro version of Challenger II does not use metal wheels because those wheels seem to have wasted weight on the bulky fuel tank.
Precautions:
1) The plastic BB in all Henglong tanks is not the best. Their instruction manual recommends visually classifying BBs and removing any BBs that are deformed, flat, cracked or oblong. In my Challenger II BB bag, almost 8% of the BB was discarded. Nevertheless, at least 70 or so BBs are sufficiently smooth and spherical.
2) Do not irrigate smokers. There is a smoker in the water tank and there are two exhaust pipes. In fact, these pipes can be used as both the exhaust of smoke and the inlet of smoke oil. Therefore, you must put a drop in each pipe for every hour of smoking. less is more! If you overflow the tube, the smoke will not be emitted, causing the smoker's machine to block and die.
3) Please read our "Do and Don't Do RC Tanks" article here *and watch its accompanying video *here* to get all the relevant tips, tricks and warnings related to any RC tank. Most importantly, don't try to push the tank to an obstacle larger than the obstacle that the actual tank can withstand at a ratio of 1/16. These tanks are not large-scale crawler trucks, so do not expect them to climb over rocks and boulders higher than the tank's ground clearance, which is usually about 1 inch below the hull. Also, do not try to drive in water or mud. RC storage tanks are not suitable for use in wet or muddy environments in their original state. Extensive waterproofing and cleaning are just the beginning of the upgrade work so that this operation can be repeated without causing irreparable damage.
in conclusion
Like all Hang Lung 1/16 tanks, I will evaluate the level of each of the seven key areas. To be fair, my rating is based on Challenger II's own price point and target audience. They are entry-level and mid-level RC tank enthusiasts who want to get started in the $150-$200 RTR range. From this perspective, this is how I treat
Hang Lung 1/16 scale "Challenger II" British MBT ranking method: initial quality: 94/100
My Challenger II is in ideal condition and is safely packaged. Like all horizontal dragon tanks, Challenger II is mainly made of ABS plastic. The "upgraded" version I have is mostly plastic, with a metal suspension arm and an adjustable idler mechanism on the outside, while the internal metal gearbox of the fuel tank uses steel gears.
The paint work in the factory is evenly carried out, with dense shadows but not overly glaring.
Although it is a large hull with long hulls and high side walls, the lower and upper hulls did not show significant curvature. I think the temporary refueling opportunity agrees that, under reasonable conditions, there is no need to strengthen the Challenger II hull out of the box. Inside, the steel gears are well lubricated. I did notice that some of the grease residue began to pile up in a line, being thrown away by the centrifugal force of the rotating gear.
User-friendliness and portability: 88/100
The convenience of the Hang Lung RTR kit really makes it easy to get started in the world of RC tanks. In this sense, all of Hang Lung’s tanks are excellent in reducing the cost of entering this hobby field, and I think many scale enthusiasts will like to scale tanks, just like airplanes, cars, trucks or ships. The radio attached to Hang Lung can do this without being too flashy. Compared to radios with ultra-low latency, 1 km range and Hall-effect induction bearing gimbals, I prefer to use this basic radio with a cheaper package. This is not a jet plane, 100 miles per hour from me at an altitude of a thousand feet. Although other manufacturers dominate the higher-scale and higher-function market, the prices are often prohibitive.
Like Henglong's other 1/16 scale "Big Five" tanks (Abrams, Leopard 2A6, T99, Tiger King), the large size of the Challenger II can also be said to be an advantage, because it is a Kind of responsibility. Its long barrel can easily hit my car door or something, so be careful when you carry it with you. The machine gun on the top of the turret is best removed during transportation because its position is so exposed.
Despite being a "lightweight" upgraded version, the "Challenger II" weighs more than 6 pounds. The professional version with metal wheels and tracks weighs about 11 pounds! Therefore, people who want a light, easy-to-transport fuel tank may want to find another place.
Perhaps the most user-friendly element of Challenger II is its adjustable idler mechanism. Easy to access and easy to adjust (if needed).
Mobility and driving experience 90/100
Although the Challenger II is larger in size, its crawler tracks have a larger ground contact area, so the ground pressure is lower, so it has outstanding mobility. In fact, plastic crawlers have sufficient bite force on the surface of short grass and accumulated dirt or loose gravel. However, due to speed, I may sometimes force the track of the tank to slide on smooth surfaces such as cement, tiles or wooden floors.
However, if the user tries to perform a fast "super spin" operation, the above-mentioned flexure inherent in the plastic track found in the original version, the upgraded version and the Upgrade-A version is easy to jump teeth due to the outer edge of the track shoe. You can drill into a softer surface and gradually solve it. However, under the large-scale operation speed, the plastic track can play a perfect role. This is a tank, not a drift car.
I prefer the third sound setting of Challenger II. Out of the box, it is programmed as a second sound set. Tap the G and K buttons at the same time to switch between different sound sets.
Durability 87/100
The metal suspension arm and the almost flat bottom hull have high long-term durability. I found that the Challenger II does not get stuck on many obstacles. Although the cantilever is in a vulnerable position when driving in the rubble, there are no deep cuts in the cantilever or raised protection area. Unlike the early staggered wheels of King Tiger, Panther G or Tiger I, the wheel layout can also resist debris.
However, I still recommend using ABS adhesive to stick the towing hooks of the front lower hull, the shackles and towing hooks of the rear lower hull, because they are easy to break if they encounter obstacles higher than 38mm ground clearance. Depending on how you carry the Challenger II, it is also a good idea to stick the rear fuel tank to the hull.
Customers who want to increase the rigidity and durability of metal tracks, metal idlers and metal drive sprockets should consider buying the more expensive "professional" version, as shown in the picture below. Please note that since there is no paint out of the box, it is easy to identify the metal parts.
Scale fidelity 90/100
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Several plastic parts are provided for modelers to install on the water tank to enhance the overall appearance of the scale. These are inserted into pre-drilled holes and are almost "snap-fit". Some parts are loose, so I glued them with ABS glue. However, otherwise, I hope that the parts will not be disconnected so that they can be easily removed or replaced if needed in the future. From beginning to end, it takes about 45-50 minutes to install plastic "accessories" in the front turret area, including fuel tanks, fire extinguishers, grenade launchers, rearview mirrors and many grippers. If you want to spend some time cutting out the parts from the plastic gate, plan for an hour. I recommend a sharp clipper designed for this purpose because it makes cleaning up much easier.
At this price point, some detail areas must be softened and can be used in mass-produced RC tanks, but overall, this 1/16-scale Challenger II looks good from almost any angle. It feels like a powerful machine, which means doing bad things to bad guys.
Easy to maintain and upgrade possibilities 94/100
Not surprisingly, the Challenger II is easy to maintain and provides ample space inside the hull. Drivers who want to upgrade to larger speakers or design on-board charging systems are best to use a spacious tank like Challenger II instead of a smaller shell tank. Challenger II can provide spindle housing upgrades, but unless/until we change the factory assembly process, it is not easy to install at present.
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Another "upgrade" cost worth paying will be Tamiya's 1/16 German tank crew figure, which is the closest I can find to the Challenger II figure. I used the graphics shown below on the Leopard 2A6, but through repainting and some adjustments, I think they can make a suitable replacement on the Challenger II model. Hope that in the future someone can design a 3DP file for graphic printing or resin casting.
Total value (cost, size, performance, quality) 90/100
Overall, Challenger II is good. It is the only British tank in Hang Lung's current portfolio, although I look forward to changes this day. As a modern MBT currently in use, Hang Lung’s 1/16 model provides RC Tankers with a living legendary opportunity. If you don’t mind its large size and bulky proportions, and want to use a modern tank that is rarer than T-90 or Abrams in your next club event, Challenger II is worth considering.
The average individual total score of the Henglong 1/16 scale "Challenger II": 90/100
The Henglong Challenger II uses the convenience of a metal suspension arm and an adjustable roller to support its large size. The roller is wrapped in a tank that represents the pinnacle of British tank design.
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